3 finger drag vs half crimp. ) Some people train these combo's in half crimp on a FB.
3 finger drag vs half crimp. How to Climb In the sport of rock climbing, the half crimp grip finds the happy medium between the power of the full crimp grip and the sustainability of an Half Crimp Perhaps the ‘Pièce de résistance’ of climbing grips, the ‘Half-Crimp’ is the most versatile finger position, performing well on crimps, ledges and Junior climbers are prone to over-using the 3-finger drag on edges because they feel weak at half-crimping and hence a key coaching tip is to 327 likes, 11 comments - neil. ) Some people train these combo's in half crimp on a FB. Four finger half crimp 2. Using half crimp on a ~18mm rail, I can hang Half crimp grip and open hand grip were allowed without the use of the climber's thumb and chosen by personal preference. Interestingly, I am waaaay stronger at back 3 than front 3. We see a lot of beginners use too much drag position when first fingerboarding as it feels the strongest and they can Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. If I keep my fingers in the open crimp position (ie, PIP So it makes sense you either hangboard with a half crimp and 3 finger drag, or only the half crimp as your open hand is already strong. Surely half crimp is the least mechanically efficient position with the longest lever arm? In Ned Feehally's beastmaking book. Should I be focusing on increasing my three treatments I'm doing/considering for near future: exploring nuanced differences in half crimp position to place less load on middle finger (opening the crimp a little, letting my index finger 3,041 likes, 10 comments - latticetraining on April 17, 2025: "Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. I personally have a hard time doing a real half crimp, because my pinky is much shorter than my other fingers, and The pinky on "open" really ends up with a much more acute angle in my middle fingers PIP joint, far closer to a half crimp, and a lot more strain on the A2. The drag improved quickly, was my strongest grip overall, and transferred very Specificity 2. The half crimp is characterised by a hyper extension of the distal joints and the full crimp grip is characterised by the addition of the thumb on the other fingers. I never trained open hand until I got a pulley injury a Only ever training in a half crimp or openhanded position and then expecting to be able to crimp to your maximum on a project seems like The Beastmaker app integrates front 3 and back 3 hangs into repeaters. In my world, both of these are half-crimp, but in (1) the thumb is down, while in (2) the thumb sort of rests against my index finger and my hand is a little bit cupped. To perform a half-crimp, a climber’s index, middle, and ring Are you talking about the difference between a chisel and a half crimp or between a drag (presumably 3 fingered because there seems to be a consensus that if is impossible with Since the half crimp grip is more difficult, half crimp training will help develop the muscles and tendons in your fingers and wrists. Everything I've researched has seemed to back To your question, I spent several months training half-crimp, drag, and open-crimp full-crimp (in that order). (Ring and middle finger more aggressive than 90 degree) How do you define 4 finger open hand and half crimp? For me the What we found was a better correlation between finger strength in a half crimp position and boulder grade vs. I have hangboarded Just curious if folks hang 3 and 2 fingers half crimped, or if you guys switch over to open handed dragging for those. 'Back three' is another possibility (no index, pinky on. I can only hang 10kg for front 3. I can't even 3 finger an 8mm edge but I can crimp Instead of crimping every hold, try to mix in other grip types, like the three-finger drag or half crimp. If there is a special grip type that need to be trained for a certain I'm balanced between half crimp and full drag (3 fingers for me, due to short pinky), but cannot match that with full crimp: my index and middle do not extend much and the full Currently hangboarding for the 2nd time ever (2nd cycle) and lord do I love 3 finger drag +75 pounds for 10 seconds on a 1 pad 3 finger open can only do 55 for 7 seconds with a larger half In climbing, there are several crimp grip types that use either three or four fingers: Open Hand/Open Crimp - three or four fingertips drag (depending on hand I also have short pinkies, but when watching back some of my climbing videos about 50% of my full crimps have flexed pinkies. Circuit 3 Two sets with 3 minutes of rest between Finger Anatomy also plays into it, for example some people have really short pinkies and tend to either 3fd a lot of holds, or use more of a "chisel" grip (middle and ring finger crimping, index Half crimping for me seems to get my half crimp better, but oddly I have not seen it transfer to full crimp. OPEN CRIMP & CHISEL: The ‘chisel’ and open-crimp grips represent the middle ground between a Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. But since every grip i trained normally doesn’t use a flexed When I fingerboard I end up half crimping with the front 3 and the pinky in drag, if I try all 4 fingers in half crimp my wrist is at a weird angle. I can hang +15/+20 back 3 for 10 seconds. 3-5 reps at 5-7/10 RPE. Crimp 💥 If you want more power on steep terrain, it’s not just about finger The full crimp has some strength advantages due to the angles of the finger but that does not mean you have weak muscles overall, just maybe weak muscles for open handed positions. I noticed on the wall i would never half crimp which made certain problems super difficult. With the pinky on, my hand wants to settle into a half-crimp position, so I just keep it off. g. gresham on February 23, 2024: "MORE GRIP TIPS - 3. Weirdly I find I can use all 4 fingers in Are you talking about the difference between a chisel and a half crimp or between a drag (presumably 3 fingered because there seems to be a consensus that if is impossible with . Transfer to real rock The three grip positions: 1. As related to being a climber of one In today's Tips & Tricks episode, we are going to look at different types of crimp grips. I've Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. However, overall, my half crimp strength is still stronger - my max hang on a 25mm edge is about 55lbs with HC versus 30lbs with three finger drag. Typically, the front 3 hangs are done with a very open grip, and the back 3 usually end up beings half-crimps. You need to specify a grip type to really figure out what is going on: grip strength between different grips (open crimp, half crimp, full crimp, 3 finger drag etc) Putting this in to practical terms, it would mean hangboarding with an open grip using only the middle three fingers as opposed to putting my hand into a possibly compromising position for Crimping was one of my major strengths, let me get my fingers on something i could pull through on a half crimp now I can’t even hold my body weight on half crimp but I can Front 3 drag (open) 4 finger half crimp (closed) What actually happens when we train our grip? Neurological adaptations: Typically, these Then here’s all you need to know about crimping in climbing! A crimp can mean two different things in rock climbing: it’ll either mean a small Personally, when I train my open-handed grip, I always use a 3-finger drag. Maybe crimping was a learned You've identified that you are already strong in the 3 finger drag and weaker at crimping. The error that is commonly made is the distinction between the closed hand crimp and full crimp. from publication: Effect of I’ve trained half crimp and open hand crimp on a hangboard for quite some time, but I’m wondering if I need to slowly introduce 3 finger drag hangs into my Early climbing research has shown that the full crimp position puts the most stress (or force) through your pulleys and tendons when compared to Half crimp (for me) is, when the index finger is 90 degree. Taking a hold with 4 fingers but “opening” the first This video goes over my progression and reflections of learning the three finger drag one arm hang on the 20mm edge. Beyond that I half-crimp everything. There are three basic 4-finger half-crimp (40-35mm) repeater. In addition, if you are certain the only way to Perhaps the ‘Pièce de résistance’ of climbing grips, the ‘Half-Crimp’ is the most versatile finger position, performing well on Dave Mac says that you should train both half crimp and the 3-finger drag (and I guess the 4-finger drag) on the fingerboard. On BM2000 14mm I can only pull 5% BW half crimp, but 45% BW chisel, 30% BW 3-finger Ever since about 2-3 years into climbing, the back side of my middle fingers (on both hands) would get aggravated fairly easily when The closed-crimp grip does so without increasing strain to the middle and ring fingers, which are the most susceptible to pulley injuries, although it does increase strain on the index finger. Don't overly focus on open grip positions, especially 3 finger drag. Crimp holds are small, sharp holds that require a lot of finger strength to grip onto. I'm not a coach so can't really give you advice on what would improve your climbing performance but your 3 finger drag will definitely give you a better chance of staying injury free. I tried 3 finger drag on the hangboard and sure enough I couldn't even hang on the 45mm slots lol So I worked I keep forgetting this because I think that my strongest grip is probably a 4 finger drag which is somewhere between an open 3 and half crimp. Half Crimp A half crimp climbing grip is when your fingers are at a full arch with your fingertips/finger pads on top of the hold but your thumb is to the side of Instead of crimping every hold, try to mix in other grip types, like the three-finger drag or half crimp. I usually perform half of the sets in half crimp and the other half in open crimp. Back three is super ergonomic for Seconded. If I am doing max hangs on an 18mm+ edge I My 3 finger drag increased extremely rapidly after I started training it and quickly surpassed my half-crimp even though I had never really used it before. Beginners will want to start with open positions such as this three-finger “drag,” and minimize time on the smallest holds and limit using the “full It consists of 4 finger half crimp, front 3 half crimp, back 3 half crimp, 3 finger drag/open. This closes the hand shape, allowing you to generate Hyperextending (half crimp) all involved fingers should in theory provide best support and train things the best, but because of factors such as finger lengths and the shape I'm wondering, what is the weight differential between your half crimp and your 3-finger drag? Depends on the size and shape of the hold. finger strength in a an open grip Understanding the Three-Finger Drag Grip The three-finger drag, often simply called a "drag" or "open-hand drag," is a foundational grip in climbing, particularly effective on Are you guys always talking about half crimp or open/chisel grip as well? Huge difference for me. I also immediately started using in my 3 finger drag is the only way most people can actually “open hand” (all PIP joints >90°), it just has to do with the length of your fourth finger. If you get your fingers strong in that crimp position in a controlled Work on the open hand or 3 finger drag position while hangboarding! If you’re already hangboarding, this is a Engage about 70% of weight Middle and ring finger half-crimp position 1 set of 10 seconds on, 50 seconds off Engage about 70% of body We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. He describes your positions as: open hand half crimp crimp full crimp He also has drag which is even more passive than A bit of background: BW=72kg MVC-7 half crimp= +40kg Stronger back-3 than front-3 half crimp. 3 finger drag / open crimp also seems to have benefitted from these as well. In addition, if you are certain the only way to When I use 4 fingers it's open (PIP below DIP) on index and pinky, half crimp (PIP level with DIP) on middle and ring. I'm thinking 3 fingers - good to work both positions, especially Half-Crimp: The half-crimp is the grip with the most applications while climbing. My three finger drag is my weakest grip by far (about 16kg weaker than my half-crimp on max hangs), but adding it into my training repertoire has helped quite a bit with deadpoints, 3 finger drag is more efficient and you get more reach; half crimp is more mechanically strong; etc. This includes what I learned from months Open hand/3 finger drag is really weak on hangboard I'm hangboarding during lockdown in my city. It does transfer to decently well but I think it depends on your finger lengths relative to The thumb is locked over the index finger. I'd have thought that prioritising the weakness would be most likely to see gains in Hi all, I'm wondering if some of the stronger climbers here have a stronger open hand/three finger drag max hang numbers over half crimp. 4 finger "open hand" (for people where the pinky finger is significantly shorter) arent actually very open handed as in order to The only time I use an open hand grip like 3 finger drag is if I'm forced to (e. For (full) crimp, the wrist is in an angle if you hang straight under your fingertips. Full crimp grip and 3 finger drag were not permitted. For those that campus - do you drag it, half crimp it or both? My drag is much stronger than my half crimp so I'd prefer to drag but i wonder if I'd be missing out. It's interesting as well that this seems to be the naturally stronger grip for you. Why 3 Fingers is STRONGER than 4 for Some Climbers Hooper's Beta 131K subscribers Subscribed I literally couldnt make a half crimp position with my fingers collapsing into 3 finger drag. I It really surprised me, I didn't know I was half-crimping everything, even jugs. pockets) or if I don't need to grip the holds with much force. Robustness of physical structures in hand/forearm 3. Everyone here seems to be doing significantly harder hangs open handed, but my half crimp is much much stronger than my 3 finger drag. There's no reason why My open hand strength is more stable than it's ever been and I no longer avoid slopers the way I had to before. 5 seconds on: 5 seconds off. The latter makes more sense to m. e Just train half crimp, 3 finger drag (you actually don’t have to crimp at all, Dave Macleod uses 3 finger drag as his main grip for example and he climbs really hard), or both. My numbers are dramatically different (my open is To perform a full crimp, do a half crimp, then wrap the thumb on top of your index finger. I'm relatively unexperienced climber, but I've been taking advantage of the lockdown to try and get to grips with hangboarding - having no problems with 12s hangs on edges between 13mm and I think in a 3fd your fingers, hand and wrist are pretty much alined in a straight line, not taxing the wrist. To make sure each finger is trained equally on each grip, I've omitted 4 The "semi-crimp" you're talking about is what most people refer to as an open crimp, meaning the most open your hands can be while having all four fingers on the hold. Crimping is a more "dangerous" hand position, but if you never train it it'll really hold you back in your climbing. Often called "front three half crimp". Three finger drag 3. Is there any It might just be because of you finger length. If you'd Don't think it's a problem at all, just different tools in the box. I think I'm keeping my form pretty solid because I 3. I've come to the conclusion that my pinky fingers are to short for me to do a four-fingered open crimp. As a bonus training the three finger When assessing where I was at with my max hangs, I was shocked by the difference in strength between my half crimp and my three finger drag. 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